CBR600 FX Cam Chain Tension Lifter (CCTL)

Wed, May 25, 2005 3-minute read

I finally got around to sorting the annoying rattle from the Cam Chain Tension lifter on my ‘99 Honda CBR600 FX. It had been bugging the shit out of me for nearly as long as I’ve had the bike, and whilst doing a bit of hunting around got the problem diagnosed as the CCTL. The Hayne’s manual doesn’t cover this pesky little problem, but fortunately, I found an excellent guide to it over at Boss Turbo. It’s bloody fiddly, but essentially a piece of piss to do, but I just wanted to add a few notes to supplement the guide (I was going to write my own guide, but that’d be pointless).

  1. Be *really* careful when removing the fuel tank bolts, especially the two at the front that attach beneath the handlebars. I know from painful experience (on my old Fazer) that it is bloody easy to thread the little sods, and then you need to get them tapped.

  2. Don’t muck about with the CCTL unit… i.e. don’t remove the little eyelet thingy where the top cap goes before you’ve stuck it in the hole. If like me you got worried that the replacement part looked way smaller than the one you took out, don’t worry! That’s quite normal. The eyelet thing (key) holds in the tensioner in until you insert it, and then you release the key and it springs out inside the engine.

  3. If you decide to take your fairing off, be really careful when reattaching. I found out the hard way that you don’t need to overtighten the screws, and they will snap. Where are those cable ties?

  4. Make sure you put the fuel tank bracket back on the right way round.

  5. When you remove the fuel tank, “off” is in the middle, not all the way over.

  6. When you spill fuel all over the inside of the engine because you hadn’t observed point 5 above, make sure you mop it up (and don’t smoke with petrol all over your fingers).

  7. While you’ve got the tank off, you might as well do your air filter.

  8. The bolts holding the CCTL are bloody small and awkwardly located, so for starters, make sure you’ve taken off all watches/rings/bracelets etc. because I then found I could actually get my hand in under the frame from the nearside of the bike and access the bottom bolt, and secondly, be patient when undoing them - they will come. I only have a cheap ratchet set (came free with my subscription to Bike!), and it did the job fine. Likewise they don’t need to be supertight when done back up.

It’s well worth doing, and cost me about £50 for the part from a Honda dealer. Follow the guide and you can’t go wrong!